Bike by Day & Wine by Night on a River Cruise

river cruise

The fog rolled in as a thick mist while I zipped up my hooded coat and pulled on cozy gloves. Straddling a regular bike, I hoped my leggings, tucked into wool socks, would be warm enough. Testing the gears, I found they shifted effortlessly, and the lightweight gray bicycle responded promptly to my turns. My laughter permeated the quiet morning. Here I am in Europe on a luxury river cruise, getting ready to cycle new terrain; what’s not to love?

During our AmaWaterways journey aboard the AmaMagna, the Wellness director teamed up with our guide to head out on a tour of villages along the Danube River called the Spitz to Weissenkirchen Bike Tour. Sunny or not, cycling was exhilarating. Winding through rolling green hills, we stopped at an autumn-yellow vineyard. Our guide encouraged, “Go ahead and try a grape.” Delicately, I picked a grape still clinging to the vine post-harvest. Popping the fruit in my mouth, I savored the syrupy sweet juice. He also shared, “The handpicked Riesling grapes will become wine that dances on your tongue. And note, 2022 will be an exceptional year for European wines due to the summer drought forcing sweeter grapes.”

When everyone around me took off, I realized I was riding with seasoned bicyclists and wondered what I got myself into. However, gorgeous vistas distracted all of the riders, so it was not a big deal. At Weißenkirchen in der Wachau, we stopped at a quaint village that time forgot in Austria, and a winemakers’ paradise for over 2000 years. Pulling off my gloves, I captured memories on my phone. In the midst of this hamlet is a 14th-century Gothic church in a modest town square. This church became an icon of the community when its fortifications protected the region from invaders in the 16th century.  Then jumping back on our bikes, we peddled like jack-rabbits racing to the next stop. My smile grew as the landmark of the Wachau Valley came into view. I had read that the blue-and-white Dürnstein Abbey’s Bell Tower got its current shape during the 17th century when Baroque styles were in vogue. Called God’s Finger, this tower remains one of the finest examples of that period in Austria.  river cruise

fall scents for your home

Cycling in Vienna

Cycling changed substantially during the tour known as Vienna City Tour by Bike. Our expert guides led us to numerous spectacular city sites along our 10-mile jaunt. I quickly learned to be alert and situationally aware at all times. Jetting through city parks where fall leaves struggled to hang on to their branches, we arrived at Stadtpark. On prominent display, the golden Mozart statue, King of Waltz, appeared to play his violin for us. Continuing on designated bike lanes, we wove around people, narrowly passed other bicyclists, and watched for vehicles and horse-drawn carriages. And the stuff horses leave behind as they clip down the road. 

Zipping by the Albertina, one of the world’s leading art galleries, I made a mental note to come back on foot to visit the museum that afternoon and view the exhibit, Monet to Picasso – The Batliner Collection. Shortly after, we traversed over a chunky, jarring cobblestone square. Gripping handlebars until my knuckles lost all color; was all I could do to keep from being bounced off my bike. But around the corner, I glimpsed my first European Christmas market, nestled at the base of the St. Stephens gothic-style cathedral. I had heard about the magic of markets and felt compelled to find and explore more markets soon. However, first I needed to return to the ship and unwind from my magnificent, big-city adventures of high-adrenaline cycling.river cruise

Christkindlmarkt

Back on the ship, the crew had adorned the AmaMagna in Christmas splendor, an unexpected holiday extravagance. The décor played into my desire to locate open markets. Before I connected to the internet service onboard, I helped myself to a steamy cappuccino and inhaled the rich aroma.  Sipping the creamy brew, I pulled up each town on our itinerary and checked the opening dates for Christmas markets. Victory! I found two more marketplaces in the cities of Salzburg and Munich.

My husband and I set off to explore the markets. They are called Christkindlmarkt, which means Christ Child Market, and also refers to the “spirit of Christmas”. No cheap plastic items were on display. Instead, the huts showcased intriguing crafts, such as intricately carved wooden decorations and elegantly designed candles. We discovered these markets have nothing to do with Kris Kringle. As we wandered through cobbled squares, past twinkling Christmas trees scattered between inviting wooden huts, we looked for Santa Clause. Astonished, we did not come across a single Santa. Instead, we found that markets honor Christmas with stalls of the nativity scene. 

In addition to crafts, we realized we could munch and drink our way through the marketplace. Finding a shop that sold Glühwein, a mulled wine in beautiful mugs, the gal offered us tastes of both red and white. After deciding what to order, we wrapped our cold hands around the hot mugs of red Glühwein, warming us from the outside in. Afterward, relaxed, we looked for the next hut to visit.river cruise

Fleury Estate Wine Tastings

The spiced wine we enjoyed at the Christkindlmarkt was a bonus on top of the five wine tastings included on our cruise. In addition to local wines offered throughout the trip, AmaMagna brought in exclusive wines. Brian and Claudia Fleury hosted our wine tasting and lecture. Fleury Estate Winery, created as a luxury boutique winery, is located in Rutherford in the heart of Napa Valley. Brian’s opening statement resonated with me, “When people buy our wines, they support the liquid arts”. Their grapes are the size of coffee beans because higher elevations make the berries struggle, creating lower yields but better grapes. “Blending varietals is the utmost fun because you get to play god,” said Brian. “Testing blends requires varying the combinations by two to five percent. Putting on a blindfold is the preferred way to taste each combo and determine which wines are supreme. This is not a science but an art.”

The basis for their premier wines began when they first bought the land. Brian said, “It’s called choosing your dirt and requires hiring a soil expert to dig test holes 10 feet deep.” Grapevine roots grow 14 to 15 feet deep. Therefore, evaluating several feet of vertical soil is critical. Dirt is key. If a neighboring vineyard does well, this is not an indication that the soil next door will do the same. Brian stated his view on growing grapes, “Organic is a political option, sustainable is logical”. His advice is, “Be a good steward of the dirt because one acre is worth one million dollars.” 

After pouring wine into my stemware, I smelled the exquisite wine bouquet and tasted the 2014 Howell Mountain BDX, Reserve Blend, and the 2014 Howell Mountain, Cabernet Sauvignon. These were some of the finest wines I have sampled. When drinking wine, I am usually a one-glass woman. With Fleury wines, I would have treasured every sip of the entire bottle.river cruise

The Count of Clam Burg  

The unique onshore wine tasting my husband and I attended occurred at the castle owned by The Count of Clam Burg, “pronounced Clum”. This mighty medieval fortress has been the residence of the Count of Clam family since the Middle Ages and is located near the town of Grein a der Donau in Upper Austria. Arriving just as the sun slipped behind one of the castle towers, we felt a sense of awe as we entered the cobblestone courtyard to meet The Count. He graciously led the way through his ancestral home. 

A roaring fire in the private drawing room of the Count took the edge off the typically chilly castle. Original pictures of his key ancestors hung on every wall. Pointing out the portrait of his grandmother, he began his tale. “After ousting the Nazis, Austria was divided into quarters, one each to Britain, France, USA, and Russia. No one wanted to be in the Russian sector because it was well-known that they eliminated culture and broke or destroyed 90% of everything in the lands they occupied. When his grandmother learned the Russians would take over the property where she lived, she felt devastated. With her husband still at war, she had to face her foe alone. When the Russians arrived at her castle, she stood boldly before them and asserted, you may stay in these rooms. And we dine at 8:00 pm. The Russians, impressed with her, accepted the terms of being guests. They even played with her child. These Russians lived essentially as all-inclusive resort guests for two years in her home. When Russia pulled out of Austria, her “guests” left without even saying goodbye.”

Because of the brave grandmother, we stood that night in her Knight’s Hall, previously used for celebrations, and gained insights into life within a medieval castle. Our wine-tasting experience followed The Count’s heartfelt talk. He introduced us to Leo Gmeiner, who declared, “Being a vintner is my passion.” With an easy smile, he served as his Austrian wines produced locally from his own vineyard. Leo offered Bouvier to trendy Chardonnay, classic Zweigelt, pure Rösler, and his premium wine Cuvee Leo, matured in French oak barrels. My favorite wine, the Cuvee Leo, can be described as a deep dark ruby garnet with dark berries on the nose, delicate herbal spices, a hint of precious wood, orange zest, and some dark chocolate. This wine received the highest rating out of all Upper Austrian reds in Falstaff 2019 and was awarded 91 points. Congratulations Leo!      

The Sound of Music

river cruiseContinuing down the river through Austria, we drew closer to Salzburg and immediately thought of The Sound of Music. Songs from the movie begin running through our minds. Being joined by a busload of enthusiastic movie lovers made our day trip to Salzburg significantly special. In only an hour, we arrived at the Lake District in Austria, where the northern limestone Alps soared above Moon Lake and our destination in a little town called Mondsee. Entering St Michael’s Cathedral, we stepped into history, where the priests allowed Hollywood to film Maria’s dream wedding. In reality, Maria’s real wedding took place in the nunnery. In 1964 the 2000 inhabitants in the town, mainly farmers, were not even remotely interested in Hollywood. Farming demanded their attention. So, Hollywood filmed on a Sunday to fill the pews. Afterward, the townsfolk happily accepted the beer and sausage offered by the producers. 

Proceeding to Salzburg, we peered up the hill and located the vast abbey where Maria lived. Captain Georg Von Trapp sent his children to the best school in Salzburg, and Maria came from the Abbey to the Von Trapp family as a tutor for one of the children recovering from scarlet fever. Unlike the movie, where the Von Trapps started singing as a family right before they fled Austria, the Von Trapp family sang all over Europe for a few years before their 1938 escape. Nevertheless, the stakes were still equally high. Even with some inconsistencies in the delightful tale portrayed in The Sound of Music, the Von Trapp family has left a considerable mark with their unique story, love of music, and focus on family. Their inspiration continues today. river cruise

AmaMagna Ship

Returning to the AmaMagna, my husband and I sunk into comfy lounge chairs and listened to live music onboard the most luxurious ship on the Danube River. When the AmaMagna launched in 2019, it redefined river cruising at twice the width of conventional vessels offering extra amenities typically not found on river cruises. Some options reminded us of our previous ocean voyages. When the clock struck four in the afternoon, we headed for the piano lounge, brewed a pot of tea from loose leaves, and nibbled on layers of savory and sweet delicacies. Before dinner, we soaked in a warm, bubbling whirlpool on the outer deck – the perfect place to watch sailing away from the port. Afterward, we faced an important decision, where to dine on the ship that evening.

Traditional river cruising has its perks. For example, tours are included daily. During outings, we clicked with some of our fellow travelers who shared back and forth about travel adventures. Often our paths crisscrossed because there were less than 150 guests on the ship, so we invited them to dine with us. By attending the tastings on our wine immersion sailing, we gleaned knowledge and stories to remember. We love river cruising for its locally sourced epicurean cuisine inspired by the region. Each entrée arrived photo ready. The crew treated guests warmly, some laughed gregariously, while others spoke gently, but all made us feel at home. When we travel, a variety of activities makes us happy. So, peddling a bicycle, hiking up a vineyard, or simply being in the moment, suited us. AmaWaterways takes river cruising to a higher level with its touch of luxury and class on the AmaMagna; perfectly blending the finest aspects of ocean and river cruising.

“What we have once enjoyed we can never lose. All that we love deeply becomes a part of us.” Helen Keller

Pamela Lovegren’s expertise flows from building her own successful business to guiding small and mid-size companies. Her experience ranges from resort management, leadership conferences, property management, and business consulting to extensive traveling and travel editor of Well-Traveled Pen. Pamela enjoys celebrating and encouraging women of 50+ who desire to live life with spirit and passion each day.

LivingBetter50 is a magazine for women over 50, offering an over 50 magazine free download for women with spirit!

3 thoughts on “Bike by Day & Wine by Night on a River Cruise”

  1. What a wonderfully written article! The descriptions of the places the AmaMagna visited are thorough and colorful. Pamela gives us vivid descriptions which make me long to visit those locations on a fabulously planned tour. Truly a luxurious experience! Having traveled on other cruise lines this article makes me want to explore AmaWaterways for my next trip.

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Bike by Day & Wine by Night on a River Cruise
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