Ocean Cruising in Luxury on Small Ships

Luxury addiction came quickly. Embarking on the gorgeous Seabourn Encore in Venice, Italy, we headed to our spacious suite where a lavish welcome awaited us for ocean cruising. On a round glass table, we noticed the source of floral scents freshening the air while we opened the champagne immersed in a silver ice bucket. The bursting bubbles in our drinks released fruity aromas right under our noses. Our suite was so luxurious, we decided we had to explore the rest of the vessel. Down the corridor, we were awed by the chandeliered grandeur of a spiraling staircase stretching between seven decks; we explored every one of them. The prevailing design theme of soaring modernity met with serene beauty throughout the amenities onboard, and we felt an irresistible pull to settle in, relax, and indulge.

The Retreat

Kicking off our journey, we booked a private cabana in The Retreat located on the top deck, level 12. Slipping on soft white robes over our swimsuits, we sank into the plush sofa of our outdoor living room, complete with azure ocean views. What a dreamy world. Clinking crystal glasses, we toasted each other and the day. Indulging in specially designed dining at The Retreat included exclusive cocktails created by a mixologist and menu items not offered in other dining venues. Holding onto our beverages, we stepped into the warmth of the shimmering whirlpool centrally located among the cabanas and allowed all our worries to soak away. 

Mid-morning, we asked our waiter about the faint strains of music beginning to mingle with our tranquil spa sounds. Yon replied, “Staff is preparing for Seabourn’s traditional Caviar in the Surf event”. Curious, we wandered to the balcony above the main pool and spotted smiling officers in full uniform standing waist-deep. The highly energized Activities Director among them was delightfully entertaining as he served guests elegantly displayed champagne and caviar from a paddleboard in the water. I cannot wait to try this clever hosting idea with friends next summer.

Ladder of Kotor

After being pampered, we felt it was time for an adventure. Our ship docked in Kotor, Montenegro, a well-preserved town of medieval architecture with meandering stone alleys and a central square. Cats were everywhere in this UNESCO World Heritage Site. At first, we wondered if they were stray or diseased. Then we observed people buying tiny packets of food to feed them while stroking their fur. Someone had even built miniature houses and scattered them around the village for felines to curl up in.

While weaving between all the cats, we attempted to find the path to the famous Ladder of Kotor. Our guidebook said you must pay to climb one route, but the other was free. The first trail we located required tickets to enter, so we traipsed across town to the other one but discovered neither was free. Undaunted, we purchased passes and placed one foot in front of the next as we climbed 1350 narrow stone steps rising continuously upward. Huffing and puffing, we sporadically stopped to catch our breath while enjoying extensive views — of the town, the Adriatic Sea, our ship far below, and the backdrop of majestic mountains. Occasional sections of the footpath had no protective rails and abutted sheer cliffs, which called for caution as our adrenaline spiked. When we reached the walled fortress at the top, we fist-bumped and shouted, “We did it!” The views were worth every step.

Tea Time

We had our fill of adventure for the day, so we headed back to the ship. Checking out The Herald on our Seabourn app for events, my son noticed Tea Time started in a couple of minutes in the Observation Bar with 270° ocean views. Off we dashed to enjoy afternoon tea at 4 pm. Complete with finger sandwiches, scones, pastries, dainty China cups paired with individual pots to brew tea, and all the formality a Downton Abbey lover could wish for, we relaxed as an instrumentalist played nearby. Settling into our role, we laid napkins on our laps, allowed our tea to seep precisely the correct length of time per the sand timer, set a square lump of brown sugar in our teacup, and stirred gently. No splashing tea, clinking cups (oops, we did that once), or licking fingers, since we did not want to appear beastly. And we did not devour everything in front of us. Propriety called for restraint. Of course, the three-tiered plates were bountiful, so we could not possibly consume all the delicacies. I have attended several teas over the years and this one rates number one!

Shorai, our server, became a daily highlight of our trip. What a surprise when after meeting him once, he remembered our names and the teas we ordered the day before and asked, “Would you like to try something new today?” I asked him what his favorite tea was, and he immediately said, “Rooibos which is called Red of Africa on the ship”. When I asked him why, he said, “I love this tea because when I get homesick for South Africa and my family, the smell of the tea leaves brings back all the scents with which I am familiar. My mom making tea, and the rich soil, vibrant flowers, fragrance in the air, and whiffs of vegetation, these aromas make me happy again. I am very fortunate to be working here and love serving the teas.” Before we disembarked, I ran to find Shorai and hugged him. His last comment will stay with me forever. “I enjoyed sharing from my heart about Africa because you listened from your heart.”

Spelunking in Greece

Continuing to alternate between indulgences and escapades, we opted for spelunking. Hopping on a tour bus made it easy to investigate caves near Sami, Greece on the island of Kefalonia. Our guide led us to the entrance of the Melissani cave. The original petroglyphs she pointed out to us dated back to the 3rd and 4th centuries. The stone etchings portrayed the half-man and half-goat Greek god Pan surrounded by nymphs, which people used to worship in this mythical cave. Arriving at the base of the cave, we were stunned by how the transparent water showcased a mix of cobalt and aquamarine blues. Sunlight bathed this half of the chamber through the earthquake-induced collapsed section of the roof. After clambering into a wooden row boat, our oarsman/host rowed us around the subterranean lake. Unexpectedly, he softly began singing intriguing Greek songs, almost as an afterthought when he was not talking. Singing was as natural for him as breathing, and it was glorious. Caught up in a song, our host was not paying close attention to his surroundings. One person in our group screamed while others grabbed our oarsman before he conked his head on a large stalactite. Unhurt, he thanked us and continued to row and, of course, sing.

Proceeding to another cave called Drogarati, where temperatures inside hold at a steady 18 degrees Celsius, goosebumps arose on our bare arms. We descended into nature’s masterpiece of sculptures formed by stalactites and stalagmites, which have grown over thousands of years. We learned that when M. Farantouri and the soprano Irene Karayianni realized the acoustics were remarkable underground, they often performed concerts in the massive chamber. Upon exiting the cave, something we read caught our attention, “access to the cave is quite safe and can be toured without any risk to visitors”. Hmmm, it must have something to do with earthquakes that occur almost daily. Most quakes are under 2.0, which people do not usually feel. We certainly felt safe visiting.

Fortress of Palamidi

Fortresses dot islands in Greece like castles pepper the Danube River in western Europe, and we were ready to hike again. This time, our trek took just under 1000 steps to ascend to the Fortress of Palamidi in Nafplion, which dominates the crest of the cliffs. Well-preserved, this fortress is one of the notable achievements of Venetian fortification architecture. Poking around, I wondered about life within a fortress when we continued to find entrances to little tunnels between the eight bastions. Because this stronghold was so expansive, I knew it would take numerous guards to watch over the steep stone walls. Discovering a deep cistern on top of the mountainous hill, I decided I would not want that difficult task of drawing water. And I wondered, did people back then stop in their tracks as we did, to notice spectacular views beyond the fortress, framed by stone-encased windows and doorways?

The Power of Music

Back onboard the ship, we had the tremendous good fortune to attend a piano concert by the world-renowned, Panos Karan, who is of Greek origin. Apparently, he happened to be vacationing in the area, and our activities director was able to invite him onboard, just long enough to play two concerts. As a pianist, conductor and humanitarian, Panos’s ideas are fast shaping the understanding of classical music in the 21st century. In search of answers to his question, “Why do we play music?” he packed an electric keyboard and a generator in a canoe and sailed down the Amazon River of Ecuador and Peru, to meet new audiences and connect them through the music he deeply loves. This was the beginning of his charity called Keys to Change. Later, after the devasting Tsunami hit Japan, Panos flew out to hold a piano concert there. A man attended who survived the tsunami but lost his home and family, and had not spoken since that day. After listening to the performance, he came up to Panos, and in an uncharacteristic expression for the Japanese, hugged Panos and spoke for the first time. The power of music matters in the lives of people, and we were humbled to hear these stories interwoven with the music.

Experience the Extraordinary

Reflecting on our journey, it all began in Venice, Italy, where we tread through narrow cobblestone alleys. These passages led to traversing many of the 400 canal bridges of countless designs arching over the 177 intriguing waterways, which give glimpses into colorful Italian architecture. No wonder the Italians call Venice the “Queen of the Sea”. My son and I both agreed Venice was a well-chosen port to embark on our luxurious ship, the Seabourn Encore. 

After sailing to Croatia, Montenegro, and numerous Greek islands, our ship finally anchored in the busy metropolis of Athens, Greece for disembarkation. This city, we discovered, is a treasure trove of antiquities. Eagerly, we set out on foot once more, trekking through a lush hillside garden that yielded uninhibited views of the famous Acropolis and Parthenon. Heading to the Agora, we strode through buildings like the Roman Hephaisteion, a place philosophers such as Socrates, Plato, and Aristotle frequented. Both inspired us. Of course, climbing the highest hill was a must. Our hats almost scorched from the blazing sun, gave some relief along the zigzagging ascent up Mount Lycabettus. The reward was awe-inspiring panoramic views of Athens. After these extensive walks, we looked forward to reclining on our flight home. 

Between these two ports of Venice and Athens, our days and evenings were full of dreamy luxury, adrenaline-spiked adventure, the depth of what tea can mean, cave hopping, imagining life a long time ago, and the magnificence of the music. No wonder my son grinned at me and said, “Please don’t tell your husband how incredible the trip was so that I can travel with you again and experience the extraordinary on another Seabourn cruise!”

“I soon realized that no journey carries one far unless, as it extends into the world around us, it goes an equal distance into the world within.” – Lillian Smith

Pamela Lovegren’s expertise flows from building her own successful business to guiding small and mid-size companies. Her experience ranges from resort management, leadership conferences, property management, and business consulting to extensive traveling and travel editor of Well-Traveled Pen. Pamela enjoys celebrating and encouraging women of 50+ who desire to live life with spirit and passion each day.