A Day in Dubrovnik

By Vicki Boster –

Commanding a splendid coastal location, Dubrovnik is one of the world’s most beautiful fortified cities. Situated on the picturesque Adriatic Coast, the ancient city wall encircles a tight maze of narrow streets and centuries-old ornate stone buildings.

The massive ramparts and fortress towers curve around a tiny scenic harbor, enclosing graduated ridges of sun-bleached orange tiled roofs, copper domes, and elegant bell towers. This perfectly preserved old town is unique for its marble-paved squares, cobbled streets, churches, palaces, museums, all cut from the same light colored stone. The streets of this medieval city are blessedly free of vehicular traffic and the human spirit prevails in a vibrant and inviting manner.

The walled fortress, completed in the 13th century, has a circumference of more than a mile and a half. This largely intact city wall is one of the finest examples of its kind in the entire world. The medieval walls were constantly added to and strengthened between the 13th and 18th centuries. Remarkably- they were never used for the purpose in which they were built, thanks to the skillful diplomacy of the gracious Dubrovnik people.

In the Middle Ages Dubrovnik was active as a trading center for the Dalmatian Coast. At one time, this tiny harbor was actually a seaport rival for the larger port of Venice. The style and architecture of Dubrovnik is deeply rooted in its historical Venetian influences. The main division between the two sections of this old city is called ‘stradun’, a word of Venetian origin.

Stari Grad (the Old City) is the most famous part of Dubrovnik. Lined with cobblestone streets, fountains, museums, and churches; this walled city is exhilarating to explore. In 1979 the ancient walls and the Old City were designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. The historical Stari Grad is both compact and pedestrian friendly- you will want to walk all around this interesting and beautiful city as there are so many sights to behold.

Access into this walled city is through the ancient Pile Gate. Built in 1537 and combining a Renaissance arch with a wooden drawbridge on chains, this gate has always been the only entry through the fortified city walls. A niche built into this ancient portal contains a statue of St. Blaise, the patron saint of the city. In his left hand he holds a replica of the city of Dubrovnik.
A walk through the city should begin just inside the gate, on the Stradun. Once you pass through Old Town’s stone walls you will be transported into a breathtaking medieval world. The biggest, longest, and widest street in the city- the Stradun is known as the commercial, entertainment, and religious center of Dubrovnik. The importance of religion in the past and present culture of the city is reflected in the number of Franciscan and Dominican churches and convents.

Once you enter through the Pile Gate, you will immediately see the centuries old Renaissance Church of the Holy Savior. It is said that the women of Dubrovnik carried the stones for the erection of the church and fortified the mortar with milk and egg whites. In 1667 over three fourths of the city was destroyed by an earthquake – the church however, escaped without any damage.

Among the historical treasures that you will want to include on your walking tour of the city are:

1. Dubrovnik’s famous Clock Tower– one of the most famous “meeting places” in the Old Town.
2. Onofrio Fountain- built in the 15th century; this ornate circulating fountain was a revolutionary concept for the time.
3. Franciscan Monastery- Dating back to the 14th century -the oldest continually operating pharmacy in the world is located inside the Monastery.
4. Church of the Holy Savior- one of only a few structures in Dubrovnik to survive the 1667 earthquake.
5. Sponza Palace- one of Dubrovnik’s most beloved highlights. The State Archives are housed here and the ground floor is now the Museum of the Dubrovnik Defenders.
6. St. Blaise church- dedicated to the patron saint of Dubrovnik- this church is one of the most ornate buildings in the Old Town.
7. Rector’s Palace- the inside of the palace houses a fabulous art museum.
8. Dubrovnik’s Baroque Cathedral- rebuilt in the 18th century after an earthquake destroyed the original- recent excavations have revealed treasures dating back to the 7th century.
9. Dominican Monastery- inside is housed a collection of art from Dubrovnik’s most famous painters.
10. Gundulic Square- scene of the colorful Morning Market.

We spent one fabulous day in Dubrovnik. Our passage to this ancient city was provided by way of a Mediterranean cruise on Celebrity Cruises. I can tell you this with all assurance– one day in this beautiful city is NOT enough! We were among the first to exit the cruise ship in the early morning. It seemed as though the town was still asleep when we walked through the ancient gate. With anticipation, we climbed the many stairs that would lead us to the top of the fortress wall. Our journey around the city took almost 3 hours to complete. The walk itself, along the top of the ancient wall, was moderately difficult. There are multiple levels of steps that go both up and down. In many places the surface of the wall is cobbled and uneven. (In all honesty-persons with mobility issues should not attempt this walk.)

An excerpt from my travel journal, “the fog was heavy upon the city as we made our way to the top of the ancient wall. Gradually, the sun began to peek out between the mist- blinding me as it reflected against the angled roof tiles that seemed to stretch forever all across the city. Everywhere I looked was a shimmering sea of brilliant orange. I find it hard to fathom that this ancient wall has stood in this very place for centuries- and that in this little moment in time- right now- I am standing atop this fortress of stone. In a hundred years- who might take my place and stand here?”

In October 1991, the world watched in horror as Serbian gunners trained their artillery on the beautiful, historic city of Dubrovnik. It was the attack that shocked the world. As it was without military value, the only purpose seemed to be to break the spirits of the Croatian people by destroying the Adriatic’s most historic and beautiful city. The shelling of 1991 lasted intermittently until June 1992 and caused substantial damage to the roofs, marble streets, and Renaissance sculptures. Fortunately UNESCO and other international organizations rushed to the rescue. Teams of skilled workers labored throughout most of the 1990’s to restore the priceless treasures of Dubrovnik.

Should your travels take you to this place of both beauty and great history and you stand on top of that ancient fortress wall, you might take a moment to reflect upon how very close Dubrovnik came to being all but lost forever.

For a detailed photo essay of our amazing day in Dubrovnik- please visit my blog: http://www.vicki-2bagsfull.blogspot.com/.  With her bags always in a state of readiness, Vicki yearns to travel to places she has never been. She and her husband have traveled around the world; her photo essays beautifully detailing the amazing places that she has visited. When she is not on the go, you can find Vicki at blog above.