Stories From Cruising Portugal’s River of Gold

Breathing hard, I ran toward the first car and jumped on the train in Sintra headed to the Lisbon Rossio station. The door slid shut behind me. Passengers nearby shouted, “Press the buttons, pull the lever!” Nothing worked. Face against the glass, my husband’s forlorn figure grew smaller and smaller in the distance. What now? I was on the train and my husband was not. Thankfully, after a few unscheduled train changes, we wrapped our arms around each other and kissed, ecstatic we found each other. By arriving a couple of days early, we explored on our own before embarking on the Viking Hemming ship and sailing down Portugal’s River of Gold.

Viking excels in the luxury of exploring the world in comfort, stress-free traveling, and adventures for curious travelers interested in cuisine, culture, history, and science. This fit our goals perfectly. The next day, connecting with our Viking hosts was the easy part as we embarked on the ship. Genuine smiles greeted us at every turn. Unwinding among the heartfelt welcome of the crew, we confidently left attention to details in their wheelhouse during our cruise on the Douro River.

A Complete Culinary Experience  

Stepping through the sturdy wooden doors of W. & J. Graham’s winery the first night, we entered the story of two families. The Grahams and the Symingtons are both of Scottish origin. William and John Graham founded their company in 1820. Forging good relationships with local farmers, they were keen to develop a deep understanding of the Douro region for the creation of extraordinary port wines.  Rapidly becoming one of the most highly regarded producers, in 1890 they built the famous Graham’s Lodge on a ridge in Vila Nova de Gaia. By 1944, Quinta dos Malvedos, one of the finest vineyards in the Douro Valley, began yielding the legendary Graham Vintages.  

Back in 1882, Andrew James from the Symington family, age 19, sailed from Scotland to Porto to work as an accountant for the Graham family. A self-starter, he left Graham’s shortly after to establish his own port business. A full three generations later, Andrew’s grandsons acquired the Graham family company in 1970 when it came up for sale. The Symington family solidified Graham’s reputation for producing outstanding ports. As we wove our way through their cellars and wine caves, we took snapshots of house ports tucked away in cool brick and cement vaults dating back to 1882. Queen Elizabeth’s favorite was among them. She pulled the cork on a 1952 single harvest tawny port with hints of caramel and hazelnuts and a price tag of around $1,360 for her 90th birthday. Shortly after, we felt like royalty with two rows of superb port in crystal glasses lined up before us in a private room. We sipped extravagance. My personal favorite is the incredible 1994 Vintage port with notes of figs, smoke, and a little coffee.

Wandering, a little light-headed, to the Vinum Restaurant at Graham’s Lodge, our host handed us a refreshing white port aperitif dripping beads of moisture. Invited to recline in the historic room, we anticipated the glory of Douro DOC and Port wines harmonizing with the city’s best cuisine. The perfect starters came like music that made our taste buds dance. Trás-os-Montes matured beef ham, Green “Ceviche” and Mushroom Croquetes served with Altano Rosé Bio and Altano White Reserve. The whiff of Grilled Salted Cod with “caldo verde” arrived before the plated Fish Course was placed on the table in front of us, along with Vinha do Arco Red. The Meat Course, a “Vaca Velha” Entrecôte Steak could be cut with a table knife and served with one of the best DOC Wines of Symington Family Estates, Quinta do Vesuvio. The grand finale Dessert, a decadent Chocolate, Orange, and Cinnamon creation, slowly melted in our mouths and paired perfectly with the other dessert, Graham’s 30-year-old Tawny. Over coffee, we concluded this rated as the ultimate exquisite dinner of a lifetime. 

Spanish Flamenco 

Back onboard, sailing guests joined us in the Aquavit Lounge as dancers and musicians arrived for an evening of entertainment. Flamenco dancing comes from a complicated history in nearby Spain. Foreigners embraced the music born of Gypsies long before it became a national symbol. Many Spaniards considered flamenco a scourge of their nation. The dance, a complex art form of expression, incorporates singing, poetry, guitar playing, dance, polyrhythmic handclapping, and castanets. Spanish elites particularly despised foreigners linking Spain with flamenco, inquisitors, beggars, bandits, bullfighters, and Gypsies. Then the World Fairs of the late-nineteenth and early-twentieth centuries gave flamenco a boost. Spanish Gypsy performers became all the rage, especially in Paris. That led Spanish intellectuals and artists to elevate this primal and authentic form of flamenco to “high culture”. As lovers of all things dance, we clicked our cameras in time with the music. Bravo, an intense and splendid show!

Our Lady of Remedies

Listening to the bell tolling in the pinnacled tower, while on tour with our group in Lamego, we halted atop the hill of Saint Stephen. This Sanctuary hosts the image of Our Lady of Remedies. Devotion to this sculpture of the Virgin Mary comes from the prayers of those who suffer from illnesses and need help. Here, minus city noise, we listened as birdsongs rose to center stage on wind whispering through fluttering leaves. The trickle of a waterfall in the nearby Grotto added to the gentle symphony. Breathing deeply of rain-fresh air, we tuned in as Matthew, our remarkable guide, explained how this chapel came to be. 

The site began as an old hermitage constructed in 1361. At the risk of collapsing, Bishop D. Manuel de Noronha ordered the rebuilding of the 14th-century chapel that stood where the baroque Sanctuary is today. Later, the Bishop traveled to Rome and returned with the rather unusual statue of the Virgin Mary wearing a crown on her head and breastfeeding baby Jesus. This sparked the first massive pilgrimage. Almost a century later, immediately after his Coronation in 1646, King John IV of Portugal boldly consecrated the Crown of Portugal to the Virgin Mary and proclaimed her to be the Queen and patroness of his nation. After this act, no Portuguese sovereign has ever worn a crown. Pictures of Kings and Queens often depict crowns held in their laps. Taking almost 200 years to construct, the colossal staircase boasts 686 stairs sweeping up the hill to reach the Sanctuary. Today, pilgrims from all over the country visit this shrine, some climb the arduous stone steps on their knees. We paused, gazing at landings decorated with Portugal’s renowned glazed blue and white Azulejo tiles telling stories about devotion, statues of kings, and fountains along the extravagant staircase. Hurry flew far from our minds as we traversed downward step by step.

Quinta da Avessada 

Another day, while sauntering through the charming Favaios hamlet, we accessed a narrow alley on risky cobblestones. By crossing the threshold into simpler times, we entered a noble and genuine Douro village within a UNESCO World Heritage region known for its four-cornered bread and Moscatel wine. There, we met a grandmother named Manuela. Her stocky legs were planted firmly on floor tiles as her beefy hands punched the dough balls and kneaded exactly 12 turns, no more, no less. This much-loved loaf comes from locally produced wheat and always baked in wood-fired ovens. Her humble bakery has not changed much since she started working there at the age of seven. Biting into the crusty bread confirmed why the local demand requires a supply of 8000 loaves per day from Manuela and other bakers. The warmth of the soft interior unveiled that feeling of home as we sipped wine with our bread. 

Our next stop came into view, Quinta da Avessada. A Quinta is a wine-producing farm, and this one endured as the first Quinta in the region to plant a Moscatel Galego grape varietal. Near the entrance, accordion music resonated in the vineyard as we reached for a glass of Moscatel wine; a rich and honeyed fortified dessert wine characterized by floral and citrus aromas. Sipping slowly, we squinted against the sun chasing shadows among the rows. We lingered until the last moment, before locating seats to indulge in a traditional Portuguese lunch. 

As we sat down, Master of Ceremonies Luis Barros, the owner with an oversized grin told us a tale. “Let me tell you a wine story about the gods. Bacus, the Roman God of Wine, organized a banquet for the gods and invited the five senses. He asked Sight to hold up his glass and see the intensity of color as light showed through his wine. Afterward, he invited Smell to swirl the wine, increasing the wine’s surface area to release more aromas, which he sniffed deeply. Taste sipped the wine and detected dark berries, bitter chocolate, and buttery, nutty caramel. Touch felt the wine by the sensors in his mouth and nose, slightly dry due to tannins. When Hearing complained he couldn’t “hear” the wine, Bacus suggested clinking the glasses so Hearing could also be engaged in the celebration. Zeus and all the gods at the banquet raised their glasses, shouted Saúde, and clinked their glasses!” And so did we.

The Cork Lady

Back on our ship “The Cork Lady”, owner of Mãos de Cortica by Paula Guimarães, visited us. Cork. It is more than a detail. The relationship between wine and cork is rooted in centuries of tradition and steeped in romance around opening a bottle. Cork aids in preserving wine, is a renewable and sustainable natural resource, and plays the role of the “final piece of the puzzle” in the winemaking process. Paula shared, “Some people think the earth is running out of cork. There is no shortage because Portugal continues to replant and expand their cork forests.”

The striking cork oak has an average lifespan of over 200 years and Portugal is the world leader in growing this resource. Manually harvesting bark between May and August while the tree is actively growing, makes it easier for specialized professionals to strip the tree without damaging the trunk. After the first 20 years of growth, trees may be stripped every 9 years. As the only tree whose bark regenerates, the cork oak acquires a smoother texture following each harvest, up to 17 times in a lifetime. 

The light turned on for me regarding uses for cork beyond wine bottles. Contemplating the displays of handbags, jewelry, belts, wallets, hats, eyeglass cases, and more, I found the pull irresistible. Fiddling with the smooth cork items, they flexed yet retained their original shapes.  Paula mentioned NASA uses cork as part of a heat shield. It also pops up in shoes, clothes, floors, walls, furniture, and even cork seats on a tram in Lisbon. It is 100% biodegradable, waterproof, fire retardant, insulator, and Eco-friendly. No wonder I fell in love with cork. Going forward, instead of tossing my wine bottle corks away, I’ll toss them into boiling water instead. Followed by smashing them into pieces to produce garden fertilizer/mulch, which retains moisture, insulates soil, and helps prevent weeds. And this is only one of many creative uses. As the Cork Lady said, “May the cork be with you.”

Portugal by Wine

Loosening our grip on hectic living, we adopted the serene pace of Portuguese villagers as we cruised the Douro River. While journeying through Portugal’s River of Gold, we visited wine-making regions, learned about crafting unique ports, met vintners, and sampled wines. Most experiences were not your typical “sit down and taste wine” scenarios. Instead, each occurrence intermingled with our tours to uncommon historical sites, memorable cities, and quaint villages. One day, we laughed when we realized we sipped wine before lunchtime on a morning tour, a first for us! At that moment, the truth dawned on us. This voyage was not promoted primarily as a wine cruise. Yet our distinctive journey through Portugal surprised us with the inclusion of often and varied exceptional wine tastings. Although we previously enjoyed some very fine wine experiences on other trips, this was by far the best.                                                      

Sitting on our veranda, strolling around the top level of the ship, and rocking on the Aquavit deck, we drank in this wild, untamed, and remote mountain country. Our love for the Douro region, marvelous wines, and the Portuguese countryside deepened with each passing day. Viking intentionally builds strong relationships with local communities, opening the door for guests to enter the heart of Portugal’s culture. One of our hosts asked, “Ever fall in love with the Douro? Well, you will. Always. Each visitor becomes part of our story. Visit our vineyards and cellars, tasting both the past and the future. Relax.” This rang true for us.

“Life can be understood only backward, but it must be lived forward.”  Lucinda Riley

Pamela Lovegren’s expertise flows from building her own successful business to guiding small and mid-size companies. Her experiences range from resort management, leadership conferences, property management, and business consulting to extensive traveling and travel editor of Well-Traveled Pen. Pamela enjoys celebrating and encouraging women of 50+ who desire to live life with spirit and passion each day.

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